Surfing Lessons #1

I'm sick today. Not just the stuffy-nose wussy kind of sick. I'm pretty much the 'lay-on-the-couch-and-wonder-if-you-even-want-to-remain-alive' kind of sick. And wouldn't you know it? There's not a breath of wind on the ocean and the surf is glassy. So what does a guy like me do? He picks himself up off of the couch, wades through all of the used Kleenex, takes some Advil, and paddles out into the Pacific Ocean. That's what he does, yes sir.

Kelly's probably not the brightest light in the chandelier, you're probably thinking. Well, you may be right, but then again - I scored some waves. That's better than NOT scoring some waves, Mr. Smarty-Pants! If you're reading this and you're a little confused - congratulations: you just entered the mind of a surfer. A lot of what surfers do makes little sense to the non-surfing world. That fact is actually a twisted point of pride for surfers. People often ask why Camille and I are willing to brave freezing water, giant sharks, stinging jellyfish, huge waves that can crush us onto rock reefs, pollution, being chased by sea lions, getting held underwater by the raw power of the ocean and all of the other dangers surfers face just to catch a few waves. I guess the ugly, truthful answer to that question is that surfing is more like an addiction than a sport or pastime.

I often compare it to drug addiction. I tell people who are thinking about learning to surf to consider the consequences very carefully before they try surfing. Once you catch your first real wave, it's all over! You have been ruined. All you can think about is catching another. You have just experienced Creation in a way that is not possible anywhere else, and the exhilaration of it leaves you wanting more and more. There is a high that comes with smoothly gliding down the face of a wave, dancing a dangerous jig with the power of the ocean, that simply cannot be duplicated. The only way to feel the high again is to catch another wave. Surfing will limit your options when it comes to places you can live, friends you can keep, even jobs you're willing to work (I know many surfers, myself included, who purposely work the graveyard shift so that they can surf all day). It literally takes over your life.

While this may sound a little...diabolical...there is one thing that makes surfing a healthy addiction. Well, many things, if you consider the simple health benefits of getting all of that good exercise and fresh air. But one thing in particular changes surfing from just another addiction into something wonderful and productive. Simply stated - surfing lets me be closer to God than I ever thought was possible in this mortal body. Outdoor enthusiasts everywhere will talk about how they can feel the Creator's presence more closely when they are 'out in nature'. Whole libraries of books have been written about the 'power of the ocean'. When I surf, I feel a part of something that is SO much bigger than myself, and its power is what propels my (hopefully) graceful interaction with the Source. As a Christian, I understand who that Source is. Our Creator's voice is heard in the crash of each wave, the call of each sea bird, the very pull of the tide. His presence permeates the water and I find myself often in a state of awe and...worship.

It's no coincidence that surfing is often compared to a religion. Surfers' devotion to their pastime often mirrors religious fanaticism. The Bible explains that those who do not know God personally will naturally turn to His Creation and worship it instead the Creator (a deadly mistake, unfortunately). One of the major surfing magazines actually published a headlining article recently that proclaimed that surfing is indeed a religion! The fact is that you simply cannot sit in the ocean and even watch the surf without feeling a presence that you know is altogether bigger than you. Our natural inclination being to worship something, those who have not had the pleasure of getting to know our Creator personally tend to worship the ocean itself. I, on the other hand, get to have the incredible experience of literally sitting in God's lap and hearing Him speak to me. I can't tell you how many times I have found the answer I was seeking by just sitting in the ocean and listening. Or how many times I've heard Him say, "I love you" when I wasn't expecting a thing.

Which brings me back to why in the world a dude who can barely even stand up without being dizzy and whose sinuses feel like they are holding back the Amazon river would put on a wetsuit and paddle out into the Pacific Ocean. I'm an addict. Addicted to waves? Yes, but more than that - I'm addicted to God's presence. I'm addicted to hearing His voice. I'm addicted to feeling His power. I'm addicted to the beauty and peace that resides only with Him. I feel His presence a whole lot more sitting on my surfboard than I do laying on my couch. It's that simple.

So what's the 'lesson'? Well, after our surf session today (as I was laying back down on the couch), a question found its way into my thoughts. Am I as passionate about some other things in my life as I am about surfing? Hopefully, the answer is 'yes'. As I pondered the question, I had to admit that in some areas, I believe that I am and in others, I can stand for a little improvement. I know at least that I have a great topic for God and I to discuss over the next few surf sessions! What areas of my life am I passionate enough about to act upon? What areas should I be? What areas shouldn't I? What does God want me to be so passionate about that even sickness can't restrain my enthusiasm? How about you? Ever asked yourself these kinds of questions?

I don't have all of the answers, but like I said - I have some great fuel for future conversations with my Creator! Hopefully tomorrow I'll feel better and I'll get to surf again. Even if I don't feel better, I'll probably be out in the ocean if there are waves to be had. But most of all, I look forward to hearing my Creator's voice, waves or no waves.